Maik Vukan“I’d be safe and warm, If I was in LA
California dreamin’ On such a winter‘s day”
“California Dreamin’,”
The Mamas & The Papas
This iconic band expressed my thoughts perfectly after I found myself stuck in an icy blizzard somewhere in South Dakota. Winter had arrived too suddenly; I woke up freezing, my Land Rover camper covered in thick ice – a shock after just having enjoyed life the day before in short sleeves. The end of October seemed the perfect time to flee to Southern California to escape the winter.
Sandy beaches, palm trees, surfing in the Pacific, wiggling my toes in warmer waters – those visions danced through my head as I drove my ’97 Defender 130 in the right-hand lanes of America’s interstates. When traveling in a Defender 130 L316, the 111 hp produced by the 300 Tdi has its work cut out for it when pushing 7,700 pounds against the prairie winds. I laughed out loud when, at a state park campground, a guy asked me about the top speed of my Defender. “Top speed,” I asked incredulously, “This is a Land Rover, my friend!” As an overlander from Germany, the American love for big, powerful engines and fast vehicles [despite your speed limits] still puzzles me. Fortunately, my love for travelling as well as my love for Land Rovers have nothing to do with speed.
A thousand miles from California, my fuel gauge descended toward “E” shortly after a fill-up. I pulled over on a potholed road in the cactus desert near Phoenix, AZ. I lay down in the dust to examine the fuel tank and saw no leak – but the Defender would not start. I suspected an electrical issue; sure enough, both 12v batteries in my 24v system were drained. The diagnosis was clear; finding a 24v alternator would be the greater issue.
No more “California Dreamin’” but, to quote Ghostbusters, “Who ya gonna call?” Scrolling through my phone contacts, I called Rovers North. They tracked down the rare alternator in the UK and had it shipped directly to Eurosport in Phoenix. The skilled team of technicians not only installed the alternator but also provided my Defender with a useful upgrade of heavy-duty anti-roll bars. This addition reduced the body roll and sway during cornering and over road irregularities.
Heading west out of Phoenix, I started dreaming again of warm weeks in California. I had seen enough cacti and was definitely ready to feel the sand under my toes and enjoy the mild breezes of the Pacific. I took a detour from the interstates to experience the Mojave Desert and its Kelso Dunes.
I had always wanted to see this awe-inspiring place. Whether climbing the Dunes or camping beside them, the sights and sounds were breathtaking. The silence in the desert felt otherworldly. The clouds formed new paintings in the sky throughout the day, and the sunsets gave way to the darkest, star-filled skies. If you plan to visit the Dunes, primitive camping is available. The National Park Service road to the campsites is pothole-riven and unpaved. [Visit https://www.nps.gov/moja/kelso-dunes.htm –ed]
With this peaceful detour behind me, neither the fabled autobahns of Germany nor its overcrowded cities prepared me for the automotive chaos that is greater Los Angeles. In writing this article, I’m thankful for surviving that urban hell: navigating the 6–8 lanes of traffic, keeping up with the pace in each lane with my slow and heavy Defender, keeping my cool despite no air conditioning. Now I understood why, prior to my departure, friends asked if I really wanted to travel to Los Angeles. Of course, I wanted to – what an experience to cruise around Hollywood in my Defender!
After two days in L.A., I followed the Pacific Coast Highway north toward the stunning beach cities of Santa Monica, Malibu and Ventura. The beauty of the beaches lured me into finally learning how to surf. On Santa Claus Beach in Carpinteria, I took my first lessons and managed to catch my first wave! Next door in the historic town of Santa Barbara, I saw and learned much about the varied history and culture of the region.
Before heading far north to Big Sur, I stopped for a few days at the hidden gem of Jalama Beach. My surfing instructor had recommended this stop to me; it was definitely worth the drive up and down the winding dead-end road (oh, how I love my new sway bars!). I enjoyed the spectacular views from the campsites as much as the famous Jalama Beach burgers. (As the park often closes because of its proximity to the Vanderburg Air Force Base and Space X launches, do check before assuming access to the campsites.)
I headed north on the famous Pacific Coast Highway (PCH), fortunately missing the landslides that close it off at times – such as when I attempted to drive it. Instead, I chose to travel the northern half of Big Sur. The perfect weather and light off-season traffic provided me with views of the bright blue sea, sandy beaches and cliffs rolling into the ocean. I totally understand why this mythical place has inspired generations of artists, poets and musicians. And, for sure, it’s on millions of bucket lists.
Instead of my heart, I left my Defender behind for my first visit to San Francisco. Thanks to an excellent public transportation network, I could easily visit its famous attractions. Have you ever walked the Golden Gate Bridge and touched the vibrating giant ropes of steel with your own hands? Or spent a night or two on a small lighthouse island in San Francisco Bay?
My trip along the California coast ended in the Redwoods National and State Parks. The 380-foot trees, among the tallest standing trees on the planet, loom higher than a 30-story skyscraper. While falling asleep in my Defender, I thought about all the amazing places I had seen on this road trip around California over the past weeks. My personal “California Dreamin’” did not disappoint me. Even an alternator failure could not stop me and my Land Rover from traveling to the West Coast – thanks to the extraordinarily helpful Land Rover community here
in the US!
[Follow Maik on Instagram @A_World_Full_of_Stories or at www.AWorldFullOfStories.com -ed.]